You pay for your treatments in the camekan; the rates (10 to 15) and procedures—which the cashier explains in extremely basic English, or French, or German, or whatever language you speak—are essentially the same at both establishments." I mentioned William Makepeace Thackeray, who—though enjoying the "sort of pleasure. Masseuses built like linebackers and clad in sumo-wrestler thongs pummel and knead them.trCemberlitas Hamami 8 Vezirhan Cad. The patrons, all stark naked, lie on their unwrapped pestamals on a heated octagonal marble slab in the center of the room, and sweat. As a kind of dry run before subjecting myself to the full hammam treatment at either or both of these, I checked out another of the great Sinan"s offspring, the Baths of Roxelana, named for the scheming wife of Süleyman the Magnificent.


 


I stripped off my clothes, wrapped myself protectively in a pestamal, a sort of king-sized dish towel worn like a sarong, and put on a pair of semi-antique wooden clogs. Once I was rendered entirely limp, I was summoned to a marble bench along the wall and doused with warm water, then lathered up again and scoured with a loofah from the nape of my neck to the soles of my feet. Amanda Vaill is a New York-based writer currently completing a biography of Jerome Robbins. There was a blast of hot, humid air and a glimpse of a high octagonal space full of vapor, lit by star-shaped windows in the domed ceiling.


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